This was Jeff’s first big alpine climb.
We went and climbed a fun route on Devil’s Castle over the weekend. This was my third time up Devil’s Castle in a month, via three different routes. It’s an awesome place with fun adventure climbing. Here’s the pitch beta:
Pitch 1: Mostly 5.6ish, with some 5.8 moves at the last few bolts before the belay on a small ledge. A fun pitch, but nothing spectacular.
Pitch 2: Steep 5.9+ on good, flat edges up nice rock to a sweet, easy, and exposed chimney. Belay is on a good stance above the chimney. My favorite pitch on the route.
Pitch 3: Apparently there are 4 bolts on this pitch, but I only found two. I climbed up to the small tree with rope/slings on it and then left on over to the belay, but I think the bolts are to the left more. Belay on a good ledge. 5.3ish.
Pitch 4: Start out on some fun 5.8+ moves up a dark corner (passing a couple bolts and some pins) to a small ledge on top of the corner. Go right on the ledge to find the next bolt. Climb up the left side of the gully, clipping the bolts on the rocky arete to the left. Belay is on a good ledge with three bolts.
Pitch 5: Climb up to the small tree (I climbed around it to the right, but going around the left of it would result in less rope drag. There’s a small piton with a ring on it right above the tree. Climb up and slightly left from the tree. 5.7. The belay is on a good ledge right on the ridge.
Pitch 6: The other awesome pitch on the route. Fun 5.8 climbing takes you up the sharp, exposed ridge. Belay at a good ledge with two bolts. As of 9/3/10, there was gray webbing and a quicklink on the bolts. My partner thought that the last pitch was the coolest he had ever done!
I didn’t think any pitches were R or PG-13 rated. The route is very well bolted.
In addition to the dozen draws and half dozen slings, I took half a dozen cams and didn’t use any of them anywhere on the route.
9:00 – Left the parking lot
9:45 – Got to base of route
10:00 – Started climbing
11:30 – Halfway (heading up pitch 4)
1:00 – Got to top
1:15 – Left the top
1:50 – Back at packs at base of route
2:30 – Back at car
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